Bois Pacifique by Tom Ford – The Candy Perfume Boy
Controversial fragrance opinion ahoy: I think the Tom Ford Signature Collection (i.e. the more mainstream, slightly lower priced collection that includes the likes of Black Orchid, White Patchouli, and Noir etc) has better fragrances than the higher-priced Private Blends. Maybe it’s the (slightly) more reasonable price point that attracts me but the Signature Collection is where the Tom Ford brand executes its most interesting ideas in the most successful way. In fact, they even tend to move some of their better Private Blends into the Signature Collection after a period of time (see Costa Azurra and Cafe Rose).
Bois Pacifique is the latest addition to the collection. The brand calls it “a woody spicy scent of majestic woods” which, I think means that it’s quite woody… They speak of “freedom” and “vitality” but the one word that best captures the experience of Bois Pacifique is “subtlety”. For a brand known for its heavy hitters, this is quite the turn of events and it fills a gap within the current collection: that of a soft skin scent that does not demand attention.
Let’s Sniff!
The Notes
Top: Turmeric Root, Cardamom Essense, Akigalawood
Heart: Iris Root, Saffron, Incense
Base: Cedar, Oak Wood, Amber, Vanilla, Sandalwood
How Does it Smell?
Firstly, can we talk about how “Bois Pacifique” is really difficult to say? I can’t stop myself from calling it “Bois Specific”… Anyway, Bois Specific, sorry, I mean Pacifique places initial focus on cardamom. Initially, the fresher, green facets of cardamom are present, but quickly they dissipate and are replaced by the warmer, spicier elements. Bois Pacifique achieves a fully fleshed our cardamom note in a way that isn’t sporty or a watery-masculine cliche, instead allowing it to seep into the grains of wood that dominate the fest of the fragrance.
But before we get to the woods, let’s take a quick detour to talk orris. Orris, or iris, is a wonderfully complex material that can add facets of powder, earth, vegetable, violet and more. In Bois Pacifique it presents itself as a very soft, rooty-powder-violety accord that nestles itself comfortably amongst all of the woods. What I enjoy about this is the fact that it’s almost imperceptible. It sits atop everything like a slightly grey-purple iridescent filter that just enhances and smooths the whole composition. A bit like Facetune, but for fragrance…
OK onto the woods, as promised. Bois Pacifique’s wood accord a sandalwood, cedar and oak trifecta. It has the slightly nutty, unctuous feel of sandalwood, the spiced, armpit-esque pencil shavings of cedar, and the plush, aged richness of oak. Each facet plays off the other, coming together to create the most beautifully soft and richly-grained wood. It all gives definite shades of Gucci Pour Homme (less sweaty though) and Parle Moi de Parfum’s Papyrus Oud / 71 (less powdery and inky though) which means it’s not really a new idea. That said, Bois Pacifique is beautifully put together and serves as a softer alternative to those (and other) iconic woody scents.
It’s the subtlety that’s going to be the make or break for most people. If you are up for a spice, supple skin scent in a woody tone, then Bois Pacifique is a worthy contender. It is multi-faceted and complex, as well as being beautifully textured, but it’s definitely on the quiet side. So, if you are looking for something a bit bolder with good longevity and projection, then you may want to turn your nose to others in the Tom Ford Signature Collection (may I suggest Noir or Ombré Leather) because Bois Pacifique may just be a bit too subtle for you. For me, I quite like wearing it on days when I am at home in my casuals and I don’t fancy something demanding. On those days Bois Pacifique is perfect.
Mood Board
Availability
Bois Pacifique is available in 50ml (£108) and 100ml (£152) Eau de Parfum.
Disclaimer
Sample via Escentual.com. This is not a paid for or sponsored post. Images are my own.