Eveilleur and Ascetic Aesthete showcase reviews

It doesn’t matter how long I’ve been doing this for — I always love discovering new brands. So, the other day, during a Love At First Scent session, I was particularly excited to be able to showcase not one, but two firms that had been unknown to me: Eveilleur, a Croatia-based house founded by Dajana Jukic, and Ascetic Aesthete, a UK company set up by Asma Sharapova. Here are links to both review episodes: Eveilleur showcase review — Ascetic Aesthete showcase review.

Not Innocent (Olivier Cresp) 4:24
I Am (Nathalie Lorson) 9:18
Discvr Me! (Olivier Cresp) 13:10

Heaven 6:17
Stripped Bare 9:58
Transcendence 12:46
Love Addiction 16:39
Gymkhana 18:32

Top marks to Eveilleur for revealing the identity of its perfumers. Olivier Cresp’s expert handling of gourmand notes is evident in Not Innocent, whereas his ability to put together light-but-not-silly compositions comes to the fore in Dscvr Me! In I Am, Nathalie Lorson’s characteristic embrace of romantic codes rounds off the trio with considerable flair.

If there is a reason for not sharing the names of the creators of Ascetic Aesthete’s scents, I don’t know what it is. I don’t mean that to sound snide. I’m well aware that in many cases, particularly when their clients are lesser-known brands, the large compounding houses insist that their perfumers remain anonymous. I do hope Sharapova is able to right this wrong before too long, because it’s only fair that the makers of these elegant, understated pieces of work receive the credit they deserve. I’d especially like to have the opportunity to doff my hat to whoever is behind Gymkhana, which sees mint, tobacco and leather being employed to conjure a convincingly Asian image of bygone glamour. Do seek it out.

Persolaise

[Eveilleur samples provided by Sainte Cellier; Ascetic Aesthete samples provided by the brand.]

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