Atelier Materi Black Oregano Review
Atelier Materi Black Oregano
It’s sooo much easier to write about a perfume that does something original and takes a big swing than it is to discuss one that simply rehashes an existing olfactive idea. That initial blast of surprise is your article’s hook, opening to new aromatic possibilities is the narrative and the overall effect of the perfume is your piece’s conclusion. In a way it’s a review formula that can write itself…
But with that said, it still feels super exciting to smell something like Atelier Materi Black Oregano and be simultaneously so confused and amazed at what perfumer Celine Pedriel has done. Using the titular, culinary herb to pull focus and add a herbal bridge into a mineral smelling, aromatic leather proves to be a stroke of genius. Sure, there’s a cool, starkness to the overall sillage that could prove to be a little haunting and yes, it’s dry – like Aedes des Venustas’ Iris Nazarena dry – but to feel kind of brittle as it sits on skin whilst projecting like a loudhailer.
L-R: Atelier Materi founder and Creative Director Veronique Le Bihan, perfumer Celine Pedriel.
“I wanted to contrast the raw, expressive, and singular presence of oregano with the sensual depth of leather.” Pedriel offers, when discussing her process. “Using an aromatic note to evoke a warm sensuality might seem unexpected, but it was precisely this contrast that inspired me.”
Ultimately her unorthodox attitude works fantastically, showcasing a wholly unique approach to the genre of a leather perfume. There’s no enriched, buttery, plump undercarriage included alongside the suedey, leathery elements. Atelier Materi Black Oregano embraces the grit and grain and is left so purposely raw and crisp that it feels elemental as a result.
oregano facet
Atelier Materi Black Oregano opens with a brisk and cold combination of zesty lime and herbal nuances, the fragrance does end up warmer after spending time on skin, though the base’s blend of vetiver, sandalwood, labdanum, patchouli and oud never quite shakes the oregano’s bristly nuances. Throughout the wear the whole thing stays coarse, parched and infused with a delicious forest green hue. As an extrait strength, “oregano and leather” perfume, this might not be for everyone but, well… this is exactly what “niche” perfume should be in November of 2025! Perfumes like this only exist because there are still people who are willing to take risks and make something divisive precisely because they are in a position where they can.
Black Oregano is the fourth fragrance in Atelier Materi’s gold topped extrait collection.
It’s also worth noting that it’s not the first time Atelier Materi has released something this bold – the brand’s previous release, Vanille Carbone, dovetailed a concept of pitch-black patent leather with three extracts of vanilla, creating a proudly anti-gourmand vanilla fragrance that takes far more than a casual wearing to really understand – but it’s with Black Oregano that they’ve created something fervent and utterly unique. Taking an underutilized ingredient like oregano – a herb so closely associated with with pizza bases and tomato sauce- and contrasting it against a primordial leather is the definition of “taking a very big swing”, but it’s testament to the talent and persistence of everyone involved that it works as enigmatically as it does.
Notes: cardamom, rosemary, Peruvian lime, oregano, Haitian vetiver, Australian sandalwood, patchouli, oud, leather, labdanum
Disclaimer: a sample of Atelier Materi Black Oregano was provided by Jovoy Mayfair.
-Oli Marlow, Senior Contributor
All imagery used courtesy of the brand.
Thanks to the generosity of Atelier Materi, we have a 50ml bottle of Black Oregano for a reader in EU or Canada only. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Oli’s review and where you live. Draw closes 11/23/2025
Michelyn’s note: Atelier Materi is celebrating its 6th anniversary as of this post. Felicitations from all of us at ÇaFleureBon
Senior Contributor Oli Marlow awarded Atelier Materi Ambre Papier one of his top 10 perfumes 2024
Please see our reviews: Ida’s Ambre Papier, Ida’s reviews of Rose Ardoise, Iris Ebène and Nicoleta’s review of Santal Blond.
Watch Steven’s video best chocolate perfumes of all time which included Cacao Porcelana here
Bois d’Ambrette was included in our highly curated Make it Musk Jovoy box by former contributor Cristian Marianciuc here
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