Chanel Chance Eau Splendide, Serge Lutens Le Perce-Vent, Puente Aurora and other reviews

Chanel’s Chance range – the most insouciant in its portfolio – welcomed a new member a few weeks ago: the purple-hued Eau Splendide. I reviewed it in a recent set of Love At First Scent episodes, together with the latest from Serge Lutens and a striking limited edition from Puente. Here are links to the videos, followed by further thoughts on some of the releases: Chanel Chance Eau Splendide review — Elie Saab L’Homme, Serge Lutens Le Perce-Vent, Veronique Gabai Eau D’Azur, Givenchy Desobeissant, Puente Aurora and Puente Iris Doux 2025 Special Edition reviews.

Elie Saab L’Homme (Pierre-Constantin Gueros) 2:46
Serge Lutens Le Perce-Vent (Christopher Sheldrake) 11:37
Veronique Gabai Eau D’Azur (Pierre Negrin) 19:14
Givenchy Desobeissant 24:57
Puente Aurora (Eliam Puente) 36:14
Puente Iris Doux 2025 special edition (Eliam Puente) 44:15

Le Perce-Vent isn’t an example of Uncle Serge at his best. A simplistic musk composition – with a few leaves of sage thrown into the mix – it displays very little of the distinctiveness that marks the brand’s most commendable releases. At the moment, the house’s pattern seems to be that they give us one praiseworthy piece of work in one year, followed by something rather more lacklustre in the next. So, if they continue in the same vein, we can look forward to giving them a thumbs up in 2026. For a more convincing, ‘cool outdoorsy’ composition, seek out Givenchy Desobeissant. I’m not sure what’s disobedient about it — if anything, it’s a paragon of politeness — but it’s cardamom-and-tea accord is a breezy, tranquil delight.

Chance Eau Splendide is as undemanding, bubbly and sweet-natured as you’d hope. The fact that Chanel continue to devote resources to this range should be taken as a sign that they remain as serious as ever about attracting new clients, which is no bad thing, of course. All the other entries in their mainstream, feminine line are arguably too intimidating and ‘haute couture’ to be enticing to younger buyers (even Coco Mademoiselle and Allure possess a dense weightiness), so if the existence of Chance helps the brand attain some measure of relevance amongst those who aren’t interested in No. 5, Coco, No. 19 et al, then I’m happy for it to stick around.

In its original guise, Eliam Puente’s Iris Doux was a scent that needed to be in the upper regions of everybody’s ‘must try’ lists. But the 2025 special edition elevates it to even more sensual levels, thanks to the addition of an oud facet that lends the central note a purr-inducing, sensual physicality. Puente knows how to respect natural materials while simultaneously bending them to the demands of his unashamedly romantic creative visions: a skill he exercises to the full in this dream of a perfume.

Persolaise

[Review samples provided by the brands.]

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