Ganymede & Ganymede Extrait by Marc-Antoine Barrois – The Candy Perfume Boy
I always wondered whether the noses and minds behind classic fragrances such as Shalimar, Nº5, Poison, Opium, CK One etc. had any inkling that these creations would be considered as masterpieces. Did they know they were making history at the time? Or was it years later that the classic status was bestowed upon them? If so, how quickly did this happen? I think the answer varies but the moniker of classic is something that is most often awarded in hindsight and it really is the test of time that is the true decider.
We can, I think, see fragrance history in the making and it’s easy to point to a number of creations over the last decade or so that have quickly become modern classics. These are scents that have broached entirely new olfactory ground and have become hugely popular because they smell so entirely unique. I’m talking about fragrances such as Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s fiery marine Baccarat Rouge 540, Le Labo’s crystalline woody Santal 33, and of course, Marc Antoine Barrois’ spacially ethereal Ganymede.
Ganymede comes from a creative partnership between couturier Marc-Antoine Barrois and perfumer Quentin Bisch. They speak of their kinship as part of this creative synergy and how it has helped translate Marc-Antoine’s emotions and imaginations into olfactory art. Ganymede is described as a fantasy, one inspired by the moon of Jupiter and the Trojan prince from which the satellite takes its name. That all may sound a little bit abstract, but Ganymede is an abstract, cerebral fragrance that presents an entirely new olfactory experience. Is it destined to be a classic? Well, I think the answer to that is incredibly simple: it already is.
In this review I’m sniffing Ganymede in both its Eau de Parfum and Extrait concentrations. Two perfumes born from the same creative spark but with completely different points of view.
Let’s Sniff!
Ganymede Eau de Parfum
The Notes
Mandarin, Osmanthus, Leather Accord, Akigalawood, Immortelle
How Does it Smell?
Ganymede is a fragrance of four layers: fruit, leather, Akigalawood, and immortelle. It opens with a juicy mandarin note that feels as if the saturation has been dialled down to present something more pastel or water coloured. It is quickly enveloped by spice, with the rich, oily warmth of saffron and something sweaty in a sexy, intimate way. The peach and apricot facets of osmanthus serves as a through line to the leather in the base, with fleshy petals bringing an intimate sense of texture.
At its heart lies an unconventional take on immortelle, which is stripped of its curry powder and maple facets, leaving something salty and clean. Osmanthus adds a velvety sheen with shimmering apricot and peach facets, sprinkled subtly into the heart like iridescent flecks of glitter.
In the base, threads of woody, peppery Akigalawood (derived from patchouli essential oil) intertwine with a skin-like leather accord. Masterfully there is no smoke or tar here, as there is in many leather accords, instead just the dark, inky warmth and a luxurious texture. It’s crystalline, mineral, iridescent, and translucent. A bold, expansive signature that has remarkable levity.
The way people experience Ganymede is so varied. One person described it to me as the smell of a freshly printed magazine page, a description that is so accurate I was mad I didn’t think of it first, to be honest… Some love it, others hate it, and to me that’s the sign of a good fragrance. It shows a fragrance that is not afraid to be unique. It’s a fragrance not created for everybody and that’s great, because it allows for a composition that dares to be bold.
Ganymede truly is otherworldly. It feels electric and hot, like live wires, but also the cloudy, charged atmosphere of another planet. Ganymede is celestial and unique, and I struggle to think of another modern fragrance that is as compelling. Most importantly though, whilst it is weird and wonderful, Ganymede is infinitely wearable. It’s truly a masterpiece.
Ganymede Extrait
The Notes
Immortelle, Incense, Myrrh, Saffron, Leather Accord, Akigalawood, Mandarin
How Does it Smell?
Smelling Ganymede Extrait for the first time made my brain glitch in a big way. My first thought was “oh this is completely different from the Eau de Parfum” whilst my second thought, which came milliseconds later was “oh this is somehow also the same”. That’s the beauty of this remarkable fragrance: it is at once, familiar and unfamiliar. Yes, this is Ganymede, but the balance of notes is completely different, creating a unique experience that takes place on the same planet (well, moon to be specific) but not in the same hemisphere.
The key difference here is immortelle. What presents itself as a salty, mineral facet in the Eau de Parfum is much deeper, richer, and darker in the Extrait, and more importantly it’s the main focus. The full, malted, maple-like, and curried facets of immortelle are present here bringing golden, ambery colours to the composition. Saffron adds a white hot facet that amplifies the static feel found in the original, this time evoking fire rather than electricity.
There is freshness here too and what’s unusual about the Extrait is this contrast of intense shadows of immortelle against a light breeze of Akigalawood and mandarin. It’s this levity that allows for space in the composition, breaking apart the facets of immortelle and allowing them to bubble up to the surface. Mandarin latches on to the sweeter facets, whilst Akigalawood intensifies the mineral, saltier facets. A leather accord brings a human element, attaching to the sweatier, curry-like facets, hinting at intimacy. In fact, “intimate” is a good way to describe the Extrait. It’s a beguiling scent that draws people in closer.
Ganymede Extrait is denser than the Eau de Parfum. It’s more grounded in the earth. If the Eau de Parfum is the electric atmosphere of a planet, then the Extrait is the volcanic core. It’s absolutely fascinating to me how two fragrances can boast the core pillars of the same olfactory signature but execute them so differently. Ganymede is this expansive, translucent, magnetic aura, whilst the Extrait is a rich cloak that wears closer to the skin and exudes igneous warmth. Honestly, this is the most remarkable perfumery at work.
Availability
Ganymede is available in 30ml (£110) and 100ml (£190) Eau de Parfum, and 50ml (£260) Extrait.
Disclaimer
Samples via Marc-Antoine Barrois. Images are my own. This is not a sponsored or paid post.