Scent of Controversy: Patchouli’s Journey from Hippies to Haute Parfumerie
Patchouli is definitely the ‘Marmite’ of the fragrance world – dividing opinion with a ferocity that only an olfactive ingredient can inspire. The mere mention of patchouli on a perfume note list is enough to send some scurrying for cover, haunted perhaps by memories of the swinging sixties – a time when patchouli oil was worn with, well, wild abandon! Its earthy intensity a badge of bohemian spirit. Yet, to dismiss patchouli outright is to overlook its true nature: a frilly-leafed, purple-flowered member of the mint family, Pogostemon patchouli, which yields an essence so rich and complex it remains, many noses agree, unmatched among natural botanicals in its importance to perfumery.
Though patchouli conjures images of incense-filled rooms and paisley shawls layered with its leaves to protect against marauding moths, it slips quietly into the most refined fragrances, lending depth and longevity – especially when paired with rose, for example, extending its sweetness in a way few notes can.
Fascinatingly, the name ‘patchouli’ derives from ancient Tamil, meaning simply ‘green leaf’, a testament to its heritage from India, Malaysia, and Indonesia. The very finest oil is harvested from the upper layers of the plant, fermented and distilled with meticulous care, and can linger for months from a single drop on a blotter. This mastery, reserved for the most discerning noses, is vital – for patchouli in clumsy hands can overwhelm, yet in the hands of a true artist, inspires lifelong devotion.
Patchouli’s contemporary rehabilitation became truly evident than in Escentric Molecules’ M+ Patchouli, dreamed up by the ever-restless talent of Geza Schöen. Known for revolutionising perfumery with Molecule 01 – a single synthetic note, Iso E Super, which envelops the wearer in a soft, woody-musk cocoon – he saw patchouli not as a relic to be tamed, but as a partner in olfactive innovation.
As Geza says… ‘Molecule 01 is an exceptional molecule: radiant, velvety, cocooning. It’s mysteriously effective on its own, but I started to wonder if there might be another way to play with it. What if I could take the molecule and add just one other beautiful ingredient and see how they danced together in the bottle?’
What follows is a genre-shifting duet: ‘Patchouli is a unique natural. Unlike 99% of perfume ingredients, we associate it with a particular period, with the sixties and seventies and that bohemian spirit. It has a cool, rather aloof woodiness to it. I love it for its moody beauty.’
The composition features two distinct qualities, he told us; explaining that ‘The biggest chunk is Patchouli Coeur, which is a very clean, soft patchouli oil fraction with the camphor-like top note removed. I have also included a patchouli oil from Indonesia to round it out with a little bit of a top note. The result is a sophisticated, clean patchouli that pairs fantastically well with Molecule 01.’
Suddenly, those who once loathed patchouli found themselves beguiled, perhaps even passionate converts! Have you joined the fragrant throng of fans yet?
Escentric Molecules M+ Patchouli £95 for 100ml eau de parfum in the Shop
For those wishing to delve deeper, Patchouli by NEZ / LMR is an ideal companion, and merits lingering over more than a single sitting. This elegant volume – part of a celebrated series of ‘naturals notebooks’ – explores patchouli through the lens of botany, history, agriculture, chemistry, and the creative imagination of perfumers. The book generously balances technical analysis with charming anecdotes, charts, and behind-the-scenes glimpses into distillation techniques, making it as enjoyable for casual perfume lovers as for committed ingredient nerds. With quotes from passionate perfumers, such as Bruno Jovanovic’s declaration, “…if magic had a scent, it would smell of patchouli!”, readers discover the alchemy that transforms this polarising material into a cornerstone of chypre and ambrée families or, indeed, a flagship for modern fragrance houses.
Offering an illuminating olfactive journey from patchouli’s association with scandal and flower power to its enthronement as a keystone of today’s sophisticated compositions. Historical timelines, reviews of iconic fragrances worth seeking out, and lively prose ensure that every visit between its covers leaves one a little better informed, and rather more in love with patchouli’s myriad guises. The book invites the reader to dip in and out at leisure or to deep dive when inspiration strikes and stands as a rich source for those keen to reimagine what patchouli can mean.
Patchouli by NEZ / LMR, published by NEZ éditions £17 shymimosa.co.uk
Patchouli remains a polarising force, of course; but these days, with such an array of modern interpretations, misinterpretation has given way to appreciation, even awe. Perfume lovers need only open their minds and, perhaps, their nostrils to discover what we patchouli-heads have been delighting in for decades!
Written by Suzy Nightingale