Vacation Grand Cuvee & Thomas de Monaco Sol Salgado ~ fragrance reviews :: Now Smell This
As I’m writing this review, a “heat dome” is gathering over my part of the world. What better time to test and review two summer-themed fragrance samples that have been waiting patiently on my desk for weeks? Every year, of course, I emphasize that I’m a heat-hater and sun-avoider who craves salt-air scents and suntan oil-inspired fragrances. These two seemed to fit the bill, but I had more luck with one than the other. Just like a long holiday weekend, a fragrance often lives up to expectations but can fall short in other instances.
Thomas de Monaco is what I think of as a “nouveau niche” brand — I tend to confuse it with a few other companies that have men’s names, vaguely similar backstories, and/or packaging that looks like a love child of Byredo and Nasomatto. However, several people recommended this particular brand to me over the past year or two, so I finally focused on it during a visit to an indie fragrance boutique. I sniffed a few ceramic discs that had been pre-spritzed with de Monaco scents, and the one that captured my interest was Sol Salgado (developed by perfumer Maurus Bachmann, 2023). My initial reaction was, “Ooh, beach-y doll-head!” I don’t recall ever thinking before that a beach-y doll-head perfume was something I needed, but inhaling the scent off that tester disc, I had to refrain from purchasing a bottle on the spot.
Sol Salgado, I found out by consulting the internet a little later, is “the quintessence of sun-kissed skin and salt, a shimmering seduction in the magic of an endless summer” and its composition includes notes of linden blossom, mimosa and cotton flower; heliotrope, salt and ambergris; and sandalwood, vanilla, musk and smoke. Great! I ordered a sample. And this, my friends, was a perfect object lesson in not making an expensive full-bottle purchase on the spot. Although Sol Salgado started off feeling soft and sun-dappled and almond-y sweet on my skin, within two hours it had transformed from playful to plasticky. I was ready for something salty-sweet, but the cloying dry down of synthetic heliotrope and white musk just wasn’t pleasing to me. Your mileage may vary, of course!
My experience with Vacation Grand Cuvée followed a different arc. I’m already a fan of Vacation, and a regular user of their SPF 30 Baby Oil and their Orange Gelée Sunscreen Gel. Grand Cuvée is Vacation’s third Eau de Toilette, following a debut scent inspired by the smell of their original Vacation Classic Lotion and another that matches their After Sun Gel. Grand Cuvée’s composition (developed by Gregory Husar) of argan, amber, chardonnay, cedarwood, vanilla bean, cognac, peach eau de vie, “sun-washed sails, sun-kissed skin and sabered champagne cork” reportedly captures the scent of their Chardonnay Oil SPF 30, which I haven’t actually sniffed yet. It’s also billed as a “fragrance that transports the wearer ‘port side’ atop a teakwood-decked yacht at sunset…a ceremonious toast to the finer things in life.”
Spraying on some Grand Cuvée, I wondered how much it would remind me of wine, and how I’d even evaluate that connection, since I’m anything but an expert on the topic. Not to worry: as usual, Vacation is refreshingly unpretentious, as well as accessibly campy in its evocation of 1980s summertime leisure. For me, Grand Cuvée evokes some kind of kitschy beach-themed cocktail made with peach purée, peach schnapps, vanilla vodka, and who-knows-what-else. It also reminds me vaguely of the “Egyptian musk” scent of Moroccanoil hair products (is that where the argan oil comes in?). At the same time, Grand Cuvée is given a lighter touch by something clean and aldehydic that keeps it from turning into a fruity-oily mess. This fragrance would be perfect for sunset summertime drinks, especially somewhere near a beach. I also need to note that Vacation pays attention to every detail: Grand Cuvée’s box mimics the shiny burled “wood” pattern of furniture and car interior details from the 80s, bringing me right back to my (non-alcoholic) memories of that era.
Have you had any unexpected summer scent experiences of your own lately? Feel free to share in the comments.
Thomas de Monaco Sol Salgado is available as 50 ml Extrait de Parfum ($295) at Luckyscent, Indigo Perfumery and Perfumology. Vacation Grand Cuvée is available as 30 ml Eau de Toilette ($60) at the Vacation website.